The sunshine was perfect-il faisait beau-and the coffee and baguette were good and fresh at the sun-washed SNCF station. But the Friday train from Nice to Marseille was busy. Very busy. All seats were occupied and there was little standing room. The conductor moved quickly through the train and addressed the situation as best she could: able-bodied young people were asked to stand and those less able gained a seat. Many a time she was reminded: merci, vous etes gentille.